ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONSClean the work area before beginning. Inspect all parts and check for any damage and foreign material in the Oring groves, ports, and threads. If the black plastic parts are discolored white, or the piston rod is soft enough to easily scratch with a finger nail there has been damage due to improper storage chemicals. Chemically damaged parts will need to be replaced. If possible, replace all the dynamic seals .Check the pilot spool for indentations and plating from the Orings. Clean it up with white rubbing compound or replace as necessary. Check the cylinders for damage around the Oring contact area and for excessive scratching and/or chipping. Thoroughly clean all parts, especially the cylinders. If the piston rod is scratched in the seal contact area, replace itDry-fit any new parts together without O-rings to insure proper clearances.Do not use petroleum based lubrication, as the grease can damage the membrane! Have a bucket of clean, mild soapy water handy to rinse the parts just before assembly. The soap will give enough lubrication for easy assembly and will wash away any remaining dirt. Identify the O-rings by matching them to the life size illustrations on the seal gaug e.Center Block AssemblyDouble check for debris. Refer to the Center Block Drawing on page 10. To install the pilot valve O-rings inside the block, first insert the pilot spool into the pilot valve hole from the other side to use as a stop for the O-ring insertion. Rinse the Orings, then use a small wooden or plastic push rod to push the O-rings into their groves with the help of the spool. Insert inthe closest groove to the top first, and then the next one. Reverse the block and repeat from the other side. Push the pilot into the center of the pilot bore. The spool should have a snugfit in all the O rings.Install the O-rings onto the pilot valve pin seals, then insert the valve pins into the seals as shown. Rinse, then hold the pinand push the seals into place, being careful not to catch the seal on the clip ring groove. Install the clip rings .Install one of the piston rod seals inside the block with the lip face out. Push the piston rod into the bore from the far side until it is just even with the near side seal groove and push the seal into the groove with your fingers only making sure it isn't twisted and seats fully Remove the rod until after the check valves are installed.Install the O-rings onto the check valve seats and install the check valve components as illustrated. Inlet valves go on the side with the feed water inlet port and are assembled seat first, then poppet, spring, washer, and retainer. It is easier to install the poppet, spring and washer into the retainer and then put the assembly into the center block all at once. Note: notice that the old inlet valve retainers have been given small barbs to help hold them in the center block against the force of the spring. Reuse the old retainers if they are serviceable, or barb the new ones in a similar manner using a pair of diagonal cutters.) The outlet valves go on the side of the center block with the high pressure outlet port and are assembled retainer first and seat last. The O-ring friction between the valve seat and the center block is enough to hold the seat in against the spring force.(Continued on page 19) (Continued from page 18)Insert the piston rod into its bore from the side that still doesn't have a seal, pushing it through the installed seal. Then, pull it through until the end of the rod just uncovers the empty groove. Install the remaining rod lip seal with the lip pointing toward you, then push the piston rod back in until it is sticking out both sides of the center block. If the piston rod is inserted after both seals are in place, it can catch on the seal's lip causing it to tear or rol l .Cylinder Assembly (Refer to the cylinder diagram on page 11 and 12)Later models: Install the S.S. tube fitting into the end cap. If the existing cylinder end caps use tapered piped threads with Teflon tape sealant, replace them with the new Oring seal end caps if available. These are available as a kit (p/n KITHP-ECK). Rinse the cap and cylinder then press into the outer end of the cylinder, aligning the fitting port up. Thread on the cylinder ring and tighten. Install the other S.S. fitting body into the cylinder base. If the S.S.tube is new, dry fit it into the fittings on the cylinder. Clean the tube thoroughly. Slip the tube into the fittings and finger tighten the nuts. Start with the bottom fitting. Tighten the nuts 1 /4 turns while holding the fitting body. If the old tube is used and the fittings have been removed, install the fitting s, then dry fit the tube to see if the ferrules contact the fittings at the same time. Adjust by tightening or loosening the cylinder base fittingRemoval and re-Teflon taping of the threads may be necessary. Thoroughly clean the cylinder assembly with soap and water .15% and 20% pumps: Replace the white slipper rings and seal and the orange -ring on the pistons if they are scratched and worn.7%, 10% & 15% pumps: Rinse the piston, then carefully insert it into the cylinder so that the socket for the piston rod is visible. The bevel in the cylinder edge will help compress the seal lip. Push it in about half way down the cylinder .20% pumps only: Rinse the piston and insert it into the cylinder about an inch. Note that the piston rod socket must be kept at 90 degrees to the long direction of the cylinder base so that the piston rods will be aligned with the rod socket .Early models: Install the O-ring and the S.S. compression fitting body onto the end plug. Rinse the cylinder and end plug and carefully inserthe plug into the cylinder, fitting first and towards the top, without pinching the O-ring, then push the plug through the cylinder to the stop ring.The face of the plug should be V2" from the end of the cylinder and the fitting is offset to the top. If necessary, align the fitting by tapping the plug back down the cylinder then push on the fitting in the desired direction while tapping the plug back into place.Early models with hollow piston rods: Install the piston rod O-rings in their grooves inside the pistons.IMPORTANT: One piston must have the poppet assembly. If neither piston has the poppet, install a rod O-ring into one piston only. Leave the groove in the other piston empty.Later models with the solid rods do not need piston O-rings. Hollow glass piston rods cannot be used with the new style pistons. When replacing pistons on units with hollow glass piston rods use a solid piston rod.(Continued on page 20)(Continued from page 19)Valve Spool AssemblyThree piece spools should be replaced with current production single piece spools if available. If a three piece spool must be rebuilt refer to the valve block drawing- Place the rubber quad rings onto the spool ends then slip the plastic spool seals over the quad rings. Thread the ends into th e spool center. Hand tighten until the ends are bottomed out in the center section ,then tighten V4 turn more with tools holding both ends. It is normal for the plastic seals to have play in the groove.Reversing Valve Assembly
Refer to the valve block and end cap drawings Check the blocks for shavings and clean thoroughly. Install the annular ring Orings into the valve block. Rinse and push the annular rings in by hand to start. Place the annular ring tool against the rings then tap them into place. Make sure that they end up flush with the valve block surface next to it. Install the port Orings and the large center bore O-rings onto both sides of the block. Stretch the large Curings first to help them stay in the grooves if necessary. Install the pressure relief valve Oring into the valve port, then thread the relief valve in until it stops then open the valve one half turn .
Rinse and install the spool piston O-rings into the end blocks then insert the pistons with the stem facing out. Fit the spacer rings to the end blocks; they should hold there. Carefully install the left end block with the little ports on the bottom and the discharge port on the pressure relief valve side. Watch that the large Oring stays in place during mating of the parts. Tighten the bolts evenly, but do not over tighten. Hand tightening with a screwdriverhandled tool is all that is necessary.
Push the valve spool into the valve block from the right side. Keeping the spool at 90 degrees to the block will help. The seal rings are slightly oversized and need to be compressed as they slip into the annular rings. The annular ring bores are beveled for this reason. Push it in as far as it will go. Re-check the large and small port O-rings and spacer ring, then mount the right end block.
Cylinder Installation
Confirm that the check valves are installed correctly and that the cylinder and check valve -O rings are in place. With hollow rod units only, recheck that one of the pistons has a poppet assembly or if not, that only one piston to rod Oring is installed . Rinse the cylinder Oring and cylinder then carefully push the acylinder onto the center block. On single piston rod pumps, it is not necessary to try to slip the rods into the pistons; they will seat on start up. However, On 20% pumps having twin piston rods, care must be taken to ensure that the piston rods seat in the piston socket.
Lubricate the bolt threads, install and handtighten. Install the other cylinder the same way, but tighten the bolts a little further than the right side. If you have two Allen wrenches, tighten the opposing bolts at the same time. If not, alternate tightening the bolts.
Final Assembly
Install the proper O-rings onto the top of the center block. Place the valve assembly onto the center block with the pressure relief valve to the front, feed inlet side, and bolt down evenly. Install the feed inlet fitting intocenter block and the brine discharge fitting into the left or right discha
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