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NOWMANIFEST MOBILE 12/01/2014 - 12:
NOWMANIFEST MOBILE
12/01/2014 - 12:52 pm
TRUE VALUE
>> Black Friday, Cyber Monday, January sales that really begin in December, the sample sales that are in full swing in London at the moment… the flurry of discounting activity in all sectors of retail is hard to ignore. RRP – recommended retail price is fast becoming the price we look at with a #NotImpressed rolling of the eye, before we await its heavily discounted destiny. I’m not , save for a few exceptions, that’s fast becoming the case. Blame eBay, flash sale sites, discounters like Yoox and the Outnet and then of course the traditional retailers, who go on sale earlier and earlier in a bid to get rid of unsold stock.
As I was looking back at some outfits back in September during Paris fashion week and what I’ve been wearing a lot recently, the primary source was Vestiaire Collective. They had set me the challenge of wearing their pre-loved and past season wares for a few days during fashion month. No challenge there. Preloved and past season denotes most of my purchases these days as I continuously re-adjust the scales on what I consider to be the “true value” of clothing. I remember visiting Vestiaire Collective HQ and hearing about the fact that unlike bags, clothing gets extra discounted as the seasons wear on because their value diminishes rapidly. One glance at the site currently and you’ll find a Celine dress from SS14 at half the price it would have been in store and a Miu Miu coat from AW13 down 75%. Going back further in seasons and you find some veritable bargains – a Prada top from their memorable SS08 fairy collection for £200 and a Rochas by Marco Zanini (my current hunting obsession) printed top available for a snippy £70.
When you get into the semantics of it, the “true value” of fashion becomes a tetchy subject, and one that brands definitely don’t want consumers discussing, even as we’re bombarded with discounts and sale tags. You have cost price – the cost of what it took to make something, which incorporates everything from the cost of materials to the wages of design teams. Then there’s the wholesale price that a designer will charge to retailers, that might be double the cost price or more depending on what other costs of branding, running stores and other overheads need to be worked into that. Then you have the retailers’ mark-up of anything between 2.2 to 2.6 times that cost, giving them enough wiggle room to do their discounting. Bruno Pieters of the label Honest By is one of the few, if not only label, that will have their customers privy to the exact breakdown of this information.
But it’s not as easy just to say that “true” value is the wholesale price that a designer or a brand charges retailers. What price do we attribute to that feeling of buying a brand new brocade padded jacket that has just landed into a Miu Miu flagship store, with its lush cream carpeting and tactile walls? I’m using a personal working example there as someone, who pays full prices for a few notable exceptions. It’s what retailers and brands bank on, that we will constantly yearn for that feeling of the new and the fresh, as well as the fear that something might sell out in our desired size or colour way if we don’t buy it as early as possible. There’s an unquantifiable value on buying the new, that accounts for the way sites like Moda Operandi work in their periodical trunk shows or when fashion insiders make personal orders without seeing the product in question.
Then there’s more of an more of an emotional value when it comes to shelling out full price in other instances. How do you value the feeling of say buying something from an independent designer, taking satisfaction that you’re contributing to their upward trajectory? Or wanting that blue sequinned dress because it’s there in front of your eyes and all you ever ever want to wear is that blue sequinned dress, and all sensical knowledge of it eventually being discounted goes out of your head? Or memories, associations and attachments to specific designers and collections that spark off imaginary notions of value in your head. A metallic silk pleated jacket from Balenciaga’s S/S 09 collection is currently hanging about on Vestiaire Collective for a princely sum but I’m being swayed nonetheless…
In the end, “true value” is still a subjective thing that’s for each of us to grasp and figure out as we wade through the myriad of seasonal sales and discounts or at the other end of the scale, the New In boxes, the exclusives and the limited editions.
I’d be interested to know how YOU determine a “true value” of something.
Photograph by Street Fashion 5 Xpro - Prada jacket, Julien David net top and Chanel skirt from Vestiaire Collective worn with Tabitha Simmons shoes and Valentino sunglasses
Photograph by White Rabbit Dreams
Photograph by J’ai Perdu Ma Veste - Balenciaga dress and Prada sandals from Vestiaire Collective worn with Body Editions top and Sandro rucksack
Photograph by Moez Achour
Photograph by Le 21eme - Marni top, Jean Paul Gaultier jumper and Lucian Pellat Finet skirt from Vestiaire Collective worn with Louis Vuitton boots, Christopher Kane bag, Sandro rucksack and Finlay & Co sunglasses
Photograph by Your Ensemble - Vanessa Bruno jacket and Dior dress from Vestiaire Collective worn with J Brand jeans, Sophia Webster x Selfridges shoes and Celine bag
Photograph by Style du Monde
Photograph by Moez Achour - Proenza Schouler dress from Vestiaire Collective worn with Marco de Vincenzo jacket, Chanel trainers, Valentino sunglasses and Mansur Gavriel bag
4 RESPONSES
GABRIELA says:
December 1, 2014 at 1:00 pm
Love the photos!
http://www.kolorowadusza.com
WINNIE says:
December 1, 2014 at 1:45 pm
I’ve been thinking about this a lot lately, what with sales and sample sales. When people pick up items for a 1/5 of it’s retail price it’s kind of an eye opener and a reminder of actually as consumers we do pay quite bumped up prices and makes you wonder whether THAT designer bag is really worth the price tag.
Though, while handing over hard earned savings for certain designer items is a bit nerve racking, it’s also pretty satisfying too.
DINOB says:
December 1, 2014 at 2:04 pm
Although I personally absolutely agree with the pricing theory you are here promoting, as well as all the possible outlets of discounted clothing (ebay, vestitaire, yoox etc.) yet I somehow think there is still a big part of the fashion-oriented population that give extra money to get into a Chanel store and get out after 30 minutes with a huge b&w bag and feeling better about themselves. It may seem wrong from an anti-capitalistic view, but I still somehow doubt that determining our own value of clothes go beside what Honest By does…
It would be awesome creating products for the exact costs of its production/design, but where does the heritage of a brand, its spirit or the price of its interior design (e.g. Victoria Beckham’s first flagship store and its high-designed are) come in?
It’s an ideal, one that I would love to explore (that’s why I applied for the Kering award for Sustainability with a similar though of both cultural, productional and economic transparency) – and not to say that I don’t believe in it with all my heart – but I am still afraid it’s quite dreamy to think of it as becoming anyhow mainstream…
ps.That Proenza Schouler dress looks like it’s tailor-made for you!
SASA says:
December 1, 2014 at 2:34 pm
So in love with the Chanel sneaker
12/01/2014 - 12:52 pm
TRUE VALUE
>> Black Friday, Cyber Monday, January sales that really begin in December, the sample sales that are in full swing in London at the moment… the flurry of discounting activity in all sectors of retail is hard to ignore. RRP – recommended retail price is fast becoming the price we look at with a #NotImpressed rolling of the eye, before we await its heavily discounted destiny. I’m not , save for a few exceptions, that’s fast becoming the case. Blame eBay, flash sale sites, discounters like Yoox and the Outnet and then of course the traditional retailers, who go on sale earlier and earlier in a bid to get rid of unsold stock.
As I was looking back at some outfits back in September during Paris fashion week and what I’ve been wearing a lot recently, the primary source was Vestiaire Collective. They had set me the challenge of wearing their pre-loved and past season wares for a few days during fashion month. No challenge there. Preloved and past season denotes most of my purchases these days as I continuously re-adjust the scales on what I consider to be the “true value” of clothing. I remember visiting Vestiaire Collective HQ and hearing about the fact that unlike bags, clothing gets extra discounted as the seasons wear on because their value diminishes rapidly. One glance at the site currently and you’ll find a Celine dress from SS14 at half the price it would have been in store and a Miu Miu coat from AW13 down 75%. Going back further in seasons and you find some veritable bargains – a Prada top from their memorable SS08 fairy collection for £200 and a Rochas by Marco Zanini (my current hunting obsession) printed top available for a snippy £70.
When you get into the semantics of it, the “true value” of fashion becomes a tetchy subject, and one that brands definitely don’t want consumers discussing, even as we’re bombarded with discounts and sale tags. You have cost price – the cost of what it took to make something, which incorporates everything from the cost of materials to the wages of design teams. Then there’s the wholesale price that a designer will charge to retailers, that might be double the cost price or more depending on what other costs of branding, running stores and other overheads need to be worked into that. Then you have the retailers’ mark-up of anything between 2.2 to 2.6 times that cost, giving them enough wiggle room to do their discounting. Bruno Pieters of the label Honest By is one of the few, if not only label, that will have their customers privy to the exact breakdown of this information.
But it’s not as easy just to say that “true” value is the wholesale price that a designer or a brand charges retailers. What price do we attribute to that feeling of buying a brand new brocade padded jacket that has just landed into a Miu Miu flagship store, with its lush cream carpeting and tactile walls? I’m using a personal working example there as someone, who pays full prices for a few notable exceptions. It’s what retailers and brands bank on, that we will constantly yearn for that feeling of the new and the fresh, as well as the fear that something might sell out in our desired size or colour way if we don’t buy it as early as possible. There’s an unquantifiable value on buying the new, that accounts for the way sites like Moda Operandi work in their periodical trunk shows or when fashion insiders make personal orders without seeing the product in question.
Then there’s more of an more of an emotional value when it comes to shelling out full price in other instances. How do you value the feeling of say buying something from an independent designer, taking satisfaction that you’re contributing to their upward trajectory? Or wanting that blue sequinned dress because it’s there in front of your eyes and all you ever ever want to wear is that blue sequinned dress, and all sensical knowledge of it eventually being discounted goes out of your head? Or memories, associations and attachments to specific designers and collections that spark off imaginary notions of value in your head. A metallic silk pleated jacket from Balenciaga’s S/S 09 collection is currently hanging about on Vestiaire Collective for a princely sum but I’m being swayed nonetheless…
In the end, “true value” is still a subjective thing that’s for each of us to grasp and figure out as we wade through the myriad of seasonal sales and discounts or at the other end of the scale, the New In boxes, the exclusives and the limited editions.
I’d be interested to know how YOU determine a “true value” of something.
Photograph by Street Fashion 5 Xpro - Prada jacket, Julien David net top and Chanel skirt from Vestiaire Collective worn with Tabitha Simmons shoes and Valentino sunglasses
Photograph by White Rabbit Dreams
Photograph by J’ai Perdu Ma Veste - Balenciaga dress and Prada sandals from Vestiaire Collective worn with Body Editions top and Sandro rucksack
Photograph by Moez Achour
Photograph by Le 21eme - Marni top, Jean Paul Gaultier jumper and Lucian Pellat Finet skirt from Vestiaire Collective worn with Louis Vuitton boots, Christopher Kane bag, Sandro rucksack and Finlay & Co sunglasses
Photograph by Your Ensemble - Vanessa Bruno jacket and Dior dress from Vestiaire Collective worn with J Brand jeans, Sophia Webster x Selfridges shoes and Celine bag
Photograph by Style du Monde
Photograph by Moez Achour - Proenza Schouler dress from Vestiaire Collective worn with Marco de Vincenzo jacket, Chanel trainers, Valentino sunglasses and Mansur Gavriel bag
4 RESPONSES
GABRIELA says:
December 1, 2014 at 1:00 pm
Love the photos!
http://www.kolorowadusza.com
WINNIE says:
December 1, 2014 at 1:45 pm
I’ve been thinking about this a lot lately, what with sales and sample sales. When people pick up items for a 1/5 of it’s retail price it’s kind of an eye opener and a reminder of actually as consumers we do pay quite bumped up prices and makes you wonder whether THAT designer bag is really worth the price tag.
Though, while handing over hard earned savings for certain designer items is a bit nerve racking, it’s also pretty satisfying too.
DINOB says:
December 1, 2014 at 2:04 pm
Although I personally absolutely agree with the pricing theory you are here promoting, as well as all the possible outlets of discounted clothing (ebay, vestitaire, yoox etc.) yet I somehow think there is still a big part of the fashion-oriented population that give extra money to get into a Chanel store and get out after 30 minutes with a huge b&w bag and feeling better about themselves. It may seem wrong from an anti-capitalistic view, but I still somehow doubt that determining our own value of clothes go beside what Honest By does…
It would be awesome creating products for the exact costs of its production/design, but where does the heritage of a brand, its spirit or the price of its interior design (e.g. Victoria Beckham’s first flagship store and its high-designed are) come in?
It’s an ideal, one that I would love to explore (that’s why I applied for the Kering award for Sustainability with a similar though of both cultural, productional and economic transparency) – and not to say that I don’t believe in it with all my heart – but I am still afraid it’s quite dreamy to think of it as becoming anyhow mainstream…
ps.That Proenza Schouler dress looks like it’s tailor-made for you!
SASA says:
December 1, 2014 at 2:34 pm
So in love with the Chanel sneaker
0/5000
NOWMANIFEST ĐIỆN THOẠI DI ĐỘNG 12/01/2014-12:52 pmGIÁ TRỊ ĐÍCH THỰC>> Thứ sáu đen, thứ hai Cyber, bán hàng ngày mà thực sự bắt đầu trong tháng mười hai, bán hàng mẫu là trong swing đầy đủ ở London lúc này... sự bân khuân của chiết khấu hoạt động trong tất cả các ngành bán lẻ là khó có thể bỏ qua. RRP-giá bán lẻ được đề nghị là nhanh chóng trở thành giá chúng tôi xem xét với một #NotImpressed cán mắt, trước khi chúng tôi chờ đợi mệnh nặng nề giảm giá của nó. Tôi không, tiết kiệm cho một vài trường hợp ngoại lệ, đó là nhanh chóng trở thành trường hợp. Đổ lỗi cho eBay, các trang web flash bán, discounters như Yoox và Outnet và sau đó tất nhiên các nhà bán lẻ truyền thống, những người đi vào bán hàng trước đó và trước đó trong một nỗ lực để thoát khỏi của unsold cổ.Như tôi đã nhìn lại vào trang phục một số trở lại trong ngày trong tuần lễ thời trang Paris và những gì tôi đã mặc nhiều gần đây, nguồn chủ yếu là Vestiaire tập thể. Họ đã thiết lập tôi thách thức mặc đồ gốm trước yêu và qua mùa của họ trong một vài ngày trong thời trang tháng. Thách thức không có. Preloved và qua mùa là bắt hầu hết của mua hàng của tôi những ngày này như tôi liên tục tái điều chỉnh quy mô trên những gì tôi cho là "giá trị đích thực" của quần áo. Tôi nhớ đến thăm Vestiaire tập thể HQ và nghe về một thực tế rằng không giống như túi xách, quần áo được thêm giảm giá như các mùa mặc vào bởi vì giá trị của họ làm giảm nhanh chóng. Một thoáng ở các trang web hiện nay và bạn sẽ tìm thấy một chiếc váy Celine từ SS14 tại một nửa giá nó sẽ có trong cửa hàng và một cái áo Miu Miu từ AW13 xuống 75%. Sẽ trở lại xa hơn trong mùa giải và bạn tìm thấy một số giá rẻ tảng thật sự-một đầu Prada từ của bộ sưu tập cổ tích SS08 đáng nhớ cho £200 và Rochas bởi Marco Zanini (của tôi hiện nay săn bắn nỗi ám ảnh) in đầu có sẵn cho một snippy £70. Khi bạn nhận được vào ngữ nghĩa của nó, các "đúng giá trị" của thời trang sẽ trở thành một chủ đề tetchy, và một trong những thương hiệu chắc chắn không muốn người tiêu dùng thảo luận, ngay cả khi chúng ta đang ném bom với giảm giá và bán thẻ. Bạn có chi phí giá-chi phí của những gì nó đã làm cho một cái gì đó, mà kết hợp tất cả mọi thứ từ chi phí của các vật liệu để tiền lương của nhóm thiết kế. Sau đó có là giá bán buôn có một nhà thiết kế sẽ tính phí cho nhà bán lẻ, mà có thể tăng gấp đôi mức chi phí hoặc hơn tùy thuộc vào những gì các chi phí của thương hiệu, chạy cửa hàng và overheads khác cần phải được làm việc vào đó. Sau đó bạn có các nhà bán lẻ mark-up của bất cứ điều gì giữa 2.2-2,6 lần đó chi phí, cho họ đủ phòng lung làm chiết khấu của họ. Bruno Pieters của nhãn trung thực bởi là một trong số ít các, nếu không chỉ ghi nhãn, sẽ có khách hàng của họ đương sự để phân tích chính xác của thông tin này.Nhưng nó không phải là dễ dàng như chỉ để nói rằng "thật sự" giá trị là giá bán buôn mà một nhà thiết kế hoặc thương hiệu một chi phí nhà bán lẻ. Giá cả những gì chúng tôi làm thuộc tính cho cảm giác rằng mua một áo Thổ cẩm độn thương hiệu mới đã hạ cánh xuống chỉ vào một cửa hàng hạm Miu Miu, với thảm kem tươi tốt và xúc bức tường của nó? Tôi đang sử dụng một ví dụ làm việc cá nhân có là một, người trả giá đầy đủ cho một số thay đổi đáng chú ý. Đó là những gì nhà bán lẻ và thương hiệu ngân hàng ngày, chúng tôi sẽ không ngừng mong mỏi cho rằng cảm giác mới và tươi, cũng như những lo sợ rằng một cái gì đó có thể bán ra trong cách của chúng tôi mong muốn kích thước hoặc màu sắc, nếu chúng tôi không mua nó càng sớm càng tốt. Đó là một giá trị unquantifiable mua mới, các tài khoản cho các trang web theo cách như Moda Operandi làm việc tại của họ cho thấy thân cây định kỳ hoặc khi người trong thời trang làm đơn đặt hàng cá nhân mà không nhìn thấy các sản phẩm trong câu hỏi.Sau đó có là an nhiều hơn một giá trị tình cảm khi nói đến bắn phá ra giá đầy đủ trong trường hợp khác. Bạn có thể giá trị cảm giác của nói mua một cái gì đó từ một nhà thiết kế độc lập, lấy sự hài lòng bạn đang góp phần vào quỹ đạo trở lên của họ như thế nào? Hoặc muốn có màu xanh sequinned ăn bởi vì nó có ở phía trước của đôi mắt của bạn và tất cả các bạn đã bao giờ bao giờ muốn để mặc là sequinned màu xanh ăn, và tất cả sensical kiến thức của nó cuối cùng được giảm giá đi ra khỏi đầu của bạn? Hoặc những kỷ niệm, Hiệp hội và tập tin đính kèm cụ thể thiết kế và các bộ sưu tập tia lửa ra các khái niệm tưởng tượng của các giá trị trong đầu của bạn. Một chiếc áo khoác pleated kim loại lụa từ bộ sưu tập của Balenciaga S/S 09 hiện đang treo về trên Vestiaire tập thể cho một số tiền princely nhưng tôi đang bị chịu ảnh hưởng Tuy nhiên...Cuối cùng, "giá trị đích thực" vẫn là một điều chủ quan mà là cho mỗi người chúng ta để nắm bắt và tìm ra như chúng tôi lội qua vô số bán hàng theo mùa và giảm giá hoặc ở đầu kia của quy mô, mới trong hộp, các exclusives và phiên bản giới hạn.Tôi sẽ được quan tâm để biết làm thế nào bạn xác định một giá trị đích thực"" của một cái gì đó.Chụp ảnh bởi Street thời trang 5 Xpro - Prada áo, Julien David net đầu và Chanel váy từ Vestiaire tập thể mòn với đôi giày Tabitha Simmons và Valentino kính râmChụp ảnh bởi những giấc mơ thỏ trắngChụp ảnh bởi J'ai Perdu Ma Veste - Balenciaga ăn và Prada dép từ Vestiaire tập thể mòn với phiên bản cơ thể đầu và Sandro rucksackChụp ảnh bởi Moez AchourChụp ảnh bởi Le 21eme - Marni đầu, Jean Paul Gaultier jumper và Lucian Pellat Finet váy từ Vestiaire tập thể mặc cùng với Louis Vuitton khởi động, Christopher Kane túi, Sandro rucksack và kính râm Finlay & CoChụp ảnh của toàn bộ của bạn - Vanessa Bruno áo và Dior ăn từ Vestiaire tập thể đeo với quần Jean J thương hiệu, Sophia Webster x Selfridges giày và Celine túiChụp ảnh bởi phong cách du MondeChụp ảnh bởi Moez Achour - Proenza Schouler ăn từ Vestiaire tập thể mòn với Marco de Vincenzo áo, giảng viên Chanel, Valentino kính mát và Mansur Gavriel túi4 HỒI ĐÁPGABRIELA nói:1 tháng 12 năm 2014 lúc 01:00Tình yêu hình ảnh!http://www.kolorowadusza.comWINNIE nói:1 tháng 12 năm 2014 lúc 01:45Tôi đã suy nghĩ về việc này rất gần đây, những gì với doanh số bán hàng và bán hàng mẫu. Khi mọi người chọn lên mục cho một 1/5 của nó là nó là loại là một cái mở mắt và một lời nhắc nhở của thực sự là người tiêu dùng chúng tôi trả tiền khá bumped lên giá giá bán lẻ và làm cho bạn tự hỏi liệu rằng túi thiết kế thực sự là giá trị thẻ giá.Tuy nhiên, trong khi bàn giao khó kiếm được tiền tiết kiệm cho một số mặt hàng thiết kế là một chút thần kinh làm đau đớn, nó cũng là đáp ứng khá quá.DINOB nói:1 tháng 12 năm 2014 lúc 02:04Mặc dù tôi cá nhân hoàn toàn đồng ý với lý thuyết định giá bạn đang ở đây việc thúc đẩy, cũng như tất cả các cửa hàng có thể giảm giá quần áo (ebay, vestitaire, yoox vv) nhưng tôi bằng cách nào đó nghĩ rằng vẫn còn một phần lớn dân số định hướng thời trang cho thêm tiền để có được vào một cửa hàng Chanel và nhận ra sau 30 phút với một lớn b & w túi và cảm thấy tốt hơn về bản thân mình. Nó có vẻ sai từ một lần xem chống tư bản, nhưng tôi bằng cách nào đó vẫn còn nghi ngờ rằng để xác định riêng của chúng tôi giá quần áo đi bên cạnh những gì trung thực bởi nào...Nó sẽ là tuyệt vời tạo ra các sản phẩm cho các chi phí chính xác của sản xuất/thiết kế của nó, nhưng nơi nào các di sản của một thương hiệu, tinh thần của nó hoặc giá của thiết kế nội thất (ví dụ như cửa hàng hàng đầu tiên của Victoria Beckham và của nó là thiết kế cao) đến?Nó là một trong những lý tưởng, tôi rất muốn khám phá (đó là lý do tại sao tôi áp dụng cho giải thưởng Kering cho phát triển bền vững với một tương tự mặc dù của cả văn hóa, productional và kinh tế minh bạch)- và không phải để nói rằng tôi không tin vào nó với tất cả trái tim của tôi- nhưng tôi vẫn còn sợ nó là khá mơ mộng để nghĩ về nó như trở thành nhưng dù sao chính...PS.Proenza Schouler ăn trông giống như nó là thợ may, làm cho bạn!SASA nói:1 tháng 12 năm 2014 lúc 02:34Như vậy trong tình yêu với Chanel sneaker < 3Thì chúng ta SasaĐể lại câu trả lời* TênMail (sẽ không được công bố)Trang web
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12/01/2014 - 12:52 pm
TRUE VALUE
>> Black Friday, Cyber Monday, January sales that really begin in December, the sample sales that are in full swing in London at the moment… the flurry of discounting activity in all sectors of retail is hard to ignore. RRP – recommended retail price is fast becoming the price we look at with a #NotImpressed rolling of the eye, before we await its heavily discounted destiny. I’m not , save for a few exceptions, that’s fast becoming the case. Blame eBay, flash sale sites, discounters like Yoox and the Outnet and then of course the traditional retailers, who go on sale earlier and earlier in a bid to get rid of unsold stock.
As I was looking back at some outfits back in September during Paris fashion week and what I’ve been wearing a lot recently, the primary source was Vestiaire Collective. They had set me the challenge of wearing their pre-loved and past season wares for a few days during fashion month. No challenge there. Preloved and past season denotes most of my purchases these days as I continuously re-adjust the scales on what I consider to be the “true value” of clothing. I remember visiting Vestiaire Collective HQ and hearing about the fact that unlike bags, clothing gets extra discounted as the seasons wear on because their value diminishes rapidly. One glance at the site currently and you’ll find a Celine dress from SS14 at half the price it would have been in store and a Miu Miu coat from AW13 down 75%. Going back further in seasons and you find some veritable bargains – a Prada top from their memorable SS08 fairy collection for £200 and a Rochas by Marco Zanini (my current hunting obsession) printed top available for a snippy £70.
When you get into the semantics of it, the “true value” of fashion becomes a tetchy subject, and one that brands definitely don’t want consumers discussing, even as we’re bombarded with discounts and sale tags. You have cost price – the cost of what it took to make something, which incorporates everything from the cost of materials to the wages of design teams. Then there’s the wholesale price that a designer will charge to retailers, that might be double the cost price or more depending on what other costs of branding, running stores and other overheads need to be worked into that. Then you have the retailers’ mark-up of anything between 2.2 to 2.6 times that cost, giving them enough wiggle room to do their discounting. Bruno Pieters of the label Honest By is one of the few, if not only label, that will have their customers privy to the exact breakdown of this information.
But it’s not as easy just to say that “true” value is the wholesale price that a designer or a brand charges retailers. What price do we attribute to that feeling of buying a brand new brocade padded jacket that has just landed into a Miu Miu flagship store, with its lush cream carpeting and tactile walls? I’m using a personal working example there as someone, who pays full prices for a few notable exceptions. It’s what retailers and brands bank on, that we will constantly yearn for that feeling of the new and the fresh, as well as the fear that something might sell out in our desired size or colour way if we don’t buy it as early as possible. There’s an unquantifiable value on buying the new, that accounts for the way sites like Moda Operandi work in their periodical trunk shows or when fashion insiders make personal orders without seeing the product in question.
Then there’s more of an more of an emotional value when it comes to shelling out full price in other instances. How do you value the feeling of say buying something from an independent designer, taking satisfaction that you’re contributing to their upward trajectory? Or wanting that blue sequinned dress because it’s there in front of your eyes and all you ever ever want to wear is that blue sequinned dress, and all sensical knowledge of it eventually being discounted goes out of your head? Or memories, associations and attachments to specific designers and collections that spark off imaginary notions of value in your head. A metallic silk pleated jacket from Balenciaga’s S/S 09 collection is currently hanging about on Vestiaire Collective for a princely sum but I’m being swayed nonetheless…
In the end, “true value” is still a subjective thing that’s for each of us to grasp and figure out as we wade through the myriad of seasonal sales and discounts or at the other end of the scale, the New In boxes, the exclusives and the limited editions.
I’d be interested to know how YOU determine a “true value” of something.
Photograph by Street Fashion 5 Xpro - Prada jacket, Julien David net top and Chanel skirt from Vestiaire Collective worn with Tabitha Simmons shoes and Valentino sunglasses
Photograph by White Rabbit Dreams
Photograph by J’ai Perdu Ma Veste - Balenciaga dress and Prada sandals from Vestiaire Collective worn with Body Editions top and Sandro rucksack
Photograph by Moez Achour
Photograph by Le 21eme - Marni top, Jean Paul Gaultier jumper and Lucian Pellat Finet skirt from Vestiaire Collective worn with Louis Vuitton boots, Christopher Kane bag, Sandro rucksack and Finlay & Co sunglasses
Photograph by Your Ensemble - Vanessa Bruno jacket and Dior dress from Vestiaire Collective worn with J Brand jeans, Sophia Webster x Selfridges shoes and Celine bag
Photograph by Style du Monde
Photograph by Moez Achour - Proenza Schouler dress from Vestiaire Collective worn with Marco de Vincenzo jacket, Chanel trainers, Valentino sunglasses and Mansur Gavriel bag
4 RESPONSES
GABRIELA says:
December 1, 2014 at 1:00 pm
Love the photos!
http://www.kolorowadusza.com
WINNIE says:
December 1, 2014 at 1:45 pm
I’ve been thinking about this a lot lately, what with sales and sample sales. When people pick up items for a 1/5 of it’s retail price it’s kind of an eye opener and a reminder of actually as consumers we do pay quite bumped up prices and makes you wonder whether THAT designer bag is really worth the price tag.
Though, while handing over hard earned savings for certain designer items is a bit nerve racking, it’s also pretty satisfying too.
DINOB says:
December 1, 2014 at 2:04 pm
Although I personally absolutely agree with the pricing theory you are here promoting, as well as all the possible outlets of discounted clothing (ebay, vestitaire, yoox etc.) yet I somehow think there is still a big part of the fashion-oriented population that give extra money to get into a Chanel store and get out after 30 minutes with a huge b&w bag and feeling better about themselves. It may seem wrong from an anti-capitalistic view, but I still somehow doubt that determining our own value of clothes go beside what Honest By does…
It would be awesome creating products for the exact costs of its production/design, but where does the heritage of a brand, its spirit or the price of its interior design (e.g. Victoria Beckham’s first flagship store and its high-designed are) come in?
It’s an ideal, one that I would love to explore (that’s why I applied for the Kering award for Sustainability with a similar though of both cultural, productional and economic transparency) – and not to say that I don’t believe in it with all my heart – but I am still afraid it’s quite dreamy to think of it as becoming anyhow mainstream…
ps.That Proenza Schouler dress looks like it’s tailor-made for you!
SASA says:
December 1, 2014 at 2:34 pm
So in love with the Chanel sneaker<3
Shall We Sasa
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12/01/2014 - 12:52 pm
TRUE VALUE
>> Black Friday, Cyber Monday, January sales that really begin in December, the sample sales that are in full swing in London at the moment… the flurry of discounting activity in all sectors of retail is hard to ignore. RRP – recommended retail price is fast becoming the price we look at with a #NotImpressed rolling of the eye, before we await its heavily discounted destiny. I’m not , save for a few exceptions, that’s fast becoming the case. Blame eBay, flash sale sites, discounters like Yoox and the Outnet and then of course the traditional retailers, who go on sale earlier and earlier in a bid to get rid of unsold stock.
As I was looking back at some outfits back in September during Paris fashion week and what I’ve been wearing a lot recently, the primary source was Vestiaire Collective. They had set me the challenge of wearing their pre-loved and past season wares for a few days during fashion month. No challenge there. Preloved and past season denotes most of my purchases these days as I continuously re-adjust the scales on what I consider to be the “true value” of clothing. I remember visiting Vestiaire Collective HQ and hearing about the fact that unlike bags, clothing gets extra discounted as the seasons wear on because their value diminishes rapidly. One glance at the site currently and you’ll find a Celine dress from SS14 at half the price it would have been in store and a Miu Miu coat from AW13 down 75%. Going back further in seasons and you find some veritable bargains – a Prada top from their memorable SS08 fairy collection for £200 and a Rochas by Marco Zanini (my current hunting obsession) printed top available for a snippy £70.
When you get into the semantics of it, the “true value” of fashion becomes a tetchy subject, and one that brands definitely don’t want consumers discussing, even as we’re bombarded with discounts and sale tags. You have cost price – the cost of what it took to make something, which incorporates everything from the cost of materials to the wages of design teams. Then there’s the wholesale price that a designer will charge to retailers, that might be double the cost price or more depending on what other costs of branding, running stores and other overheads need to be worked into that. Then you have the retailers’ mark-up of anything between 2.2 to 2.6 times that cost, giving them enough wiggle room to do their discounting. Bruno Pieters of the label Honest By is one of the few, if not only label, that will have their customers privy to the exact breakdown of this information.
But it’s not as easy just to say that “true” value is the wholesale price that a designer or a brand charges retailers. What price do we attribute to that feeling of buying a brand new brocade padded jacket that has just landed into a Miu Miu flagship store, with its lush cream carpeting and tactile walls? I’m using a personal working example there as someone, who pays full prices for a few notable exceptions. It’s what retailers and brands bank on, that we will constantly yearn for that feeling of the new and the fresh, as well as the fear that something might sell out in our desired size or colour way if we don’t buy it as early as possible. There’s an unquantifiable value on buying the new, that accounts for the way sites like Moda Operandi work in their periodical trunk shows or when fashion insiders make personal orders without seeing the product in question.
Then there’s more of an more of an emotional value when it comes to shelling out full price in other instances. How do you value the feeling of say buying something from an independent designer, taking satisfaction that you’re contributing to their upward trajectory? Or wanting that blue sequinned dress because it’s there in front of your eyes and all you ever ever want to wear is that blue sequinned dress, and all sensical knowledge of it eventually being discounted goes out of your head? Or memories, associations and attachments to specific designers and collections that spark off imaginary notions of value in your head. A metallic silk pleated jacket from Balenciaga’s S/S 09 collection is currently hanging about on Vestiaire Collective for a princely sum but I’m being swayed nonetheless…
In the end, “true value” is still a subjective thing that’s for each of us to grasp and figure out as we wade through the myriad of seasonal sales and discounts or at the other end of the scale, the New In boxes, the exclusives and the limited editions.
I’d be interested to know how YOU determine a “true value” of something.
Photograph by Street Fashion 5 Xpro - Prada jacket, Julien David net top and Chanel skirt from Vestiaire Collective worn with Tabitha Simmons shoes and Valentino sunglasses
Photograph by White Rabbit Dreams
Photograph by J’ai Perdu Ma Veste - Balenciaga dress and Prada sandals from Vestiaire Collective worn with Body Editions top and Sandro rucksack
Photograph by Moez Achour
Photograph by Le 21eme - Marni top, Jean Paul Gaultier jumper and Lucian Pellat Finet skirt from Vestiaire Collective worn with Louis Vuitton boots, Christopher Kane bag, Sandro rucksack and Finlay & Co sunglasses
Photograph by Your Ensemble - Vanessa Bruno jacket and Dior dress from Vestiaire Collective worn with J Brand jeans, Sophia Webster x Selfridges shoes and Celine bag
Photograph by Style du Monde
Photograph by Moez Achour - Proenza Schouler dress from Vestiaire Collective worn with Marco de Vincenzo jacket, Chanel trainers, Valentino sunglasses and Mansur Gavriel bag
4 RESPONSES
GABRIELA says:
December 1, 2014 at 1:00 pm
Love the photos!
http://www.kolorowadusza.com
WINNIE says:
December 1, 2014 at 1:45 pm
I’ve been thinking about this a lot lately, what with sales and sample sales. When people pick up items for a 1/5 of it’s retail price it’s kind of an eye opener and a reminder of actually as consumers we do pay quite bumped up prices and makes you wonder whether THAT designer bag is really worth the price tag.
Though, while handing over hard earned savings for certain designer items is a bit nerve racking, it’s also pretty satisfying too.
DINOB says:
December 1, 2014 at 2:04 pm
Although I personally absolutely agree with the pricing theory you are here promoting, as well as all the possible outlets of discounted clothing (ebay, vestitaire, yoox etc.) yet I somehow think there is still a big part of the fashion-oriented population that give extra money to get into a Chanel store and get out after 30 minutes with a huge b&w bag and feeling better about themselves. It may seem wrong from an anti-capitalistic view, but I still somehow doubt that determining our own value of clothes go beside what Honest By does…
It would be awesome creating products for the exact costs of its production/design, but where does the heritage of a brand, its spirit or the price of its interior design (e.g. Victoria Beckham’s first flagship store and its high-designed are) come in?
It’s an ideal, one that I would love to explore (that’s why I applied for the Kering award for Sustainability with a similar though of both cultural, productional and economic transparency) – and not to say that I don’t believe in it with all my heart – but I am still afraid it’s quite dreamy to think of it as becoming anyhow mainstream…
ps.That Proenza Schouler dress looks like it’s tailor-made for you!
SASA says:
December 1, 2014 at 2:34 pm
So in love with the Chanel sneaker<3
Shall We Sasa
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* Mail (will not be published)
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