The sauce that is today called ketchup (orcatsup) in Western cultures is a tomato-basedsauce that is quite distinct from the Easternancestors of this product. A sauce called ke-tiapwas in use in China at least as early as theseventeenth century, but the Chinese version ofthe sauce as made of pickled fish, shellfish, andspices. The popularity of this Chinese sauce spreadto Singapore and Malaysia, where it was calledkechap. The Indonesian sauce ketjab derives itsname from the same source as the Malaysiansauce but is made from very differentingredients. The Indonesian ketjap is made bycooking black soy beans, fermenting them,placing them in a salt brine for at least a week,cooking the resulting solution further, andsweetening it heavily; this process results in adark, thick, and sweet variation of soy sauce.Early in the eighteenth century, sailors from theBritish navy came across this exotic sauce onvoyages to Malaysia and Singapore and broughtsamples of it back to England on return voyages.English chefs tried to recreate the sauce but wereunable to do so exactly because key ingredientswere unknown or unavailable in England; chefsended up substituting ingredients such asmushrooms and walnuts in an attempt to recreatethe special taste of the original Asian sauce.Variations of this sauce became quite the rage ineighteenth-century England, appearing in anumber of recipe books and featured as an exoticaddition to menus from the period.The English version did not contain tomatoes, andit was not until the end of the eighteenth centurythat tomatoes became a main ingredient, in theketchup of the newly created United States. It isquite notable that tomatoes were added to thesauce in that tomatoes had previously beenconsidered quite dangerous to health. The tomatohad been cultivated by the Aztecs, who hadcalled to tomatl; however, early botanists hadrecognized that the tomato was a member of theSolanacaea family, which does include a numberof poisonous plants. The leaves of the tomatoplant are poisonous, though of course the fruit isnot.Thomas Jefferson, who cultivated the tomato inhis gardens at Monticello and served dishescontaining tomatoes at lavish feasts, oftenreceives credit for changing the reputation of thetomato. Soon after Jefferson had introduced thetomato to American society, recipes combining thenewly fashionable tomato with the equallyfashionable and exotic sauce known as ketchupbegan to appear. By the middle of the nineteenthcentury, both the tomato and tomato ketchupwere staples of the American kitchen.Tomato ketchup, popular though it was, was quitetime-consuming to prepare. In 1876, the firstmass-produced tomato ketchup, a product ofGerman-American Henry Heinz, went on sale andachieved immediate success. From tomatoketchup, Heinz branched out into a number ofother products, including various sauces, pickles,and relishes. By 1890, his company had expandedto include sixty-five different products but wasin need of a marketing slogan. Heinz settled onthe slogan “57 Varieties” because he liked the waythat the digits 5 and 7 looked in print, in spiteof the fact that this slogan understated thenumber of products that he had at the time.
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