A case study of an Italian fashion firm’s entry into the Chinese marketThe case study is based on one of the author’s work experience in the Chinese fashionmarket. The author was employed as an assistant brand manager for an Italiancompany (referred to as Company X) in 2006, when the company began the process ofentering the Chinese market by introducing a new brand (referred to as A Brand). Inaddition to this personal experience, Company X’s web site provided supplementaldata. Company X is a leading Italian fashion company, which has a total of 15 brandsdistributed internationally. Establishing a presence in the lucrative Chinese marketwas an important strategic initiative for the company. The company had attemptedtwo separate entries into the Chinese market. The first entry was at the beginning of2005; Company X starting a JV with a local firm to distribute the company’s B brand.The case study focuses on the company’s second entry, where A Brand entered theChinese market in 2006. A Brand is characterized by its reasonable price and trendydesign. It has gained great popularity in Italy and is well-received in manyinternational markets. For the brand, design and marketing are the keys to its success.An entry mode of WOS was selected by the company for distributing A Brand in theChinese market. Company X’s decision-making process and entry mode choice areanalyzed below in relation to the nine factors proposed above.Asset specificityIn comparison to its Chinese competitors, Company X had a clear advantage inspecialized assets/unique managerial capabilities such as advertising, operating aquick response inventory system, and establishing a distinctive retail concept. Theseadvantages would enable the company to distinguish itself from local competitors andcompete successfully in the Chinese market, which encouraged a higher resourcecommitment in the market and the use of a WOS. At the same time, a WOS would bethe optimal governance structure to ensure a successful replication of these specializedassets in the Chinese market. This supportsP1: to be successful in a foreign market, afashion retailer with high asset specificity should choose a higher control entry mode.Brand equityBrand equity was one of the most important competitive advantages associated with ABrand. Compared to a JV, establishing a WOS gave the company sufficient autonomy toprotect the brand from possible local partners’ opportunism, such as counterfeiting andknockoff, and to avoid potential damage to the brand image by inattentive practices oflocal partners. The company also benefited from the established marketing practices ofthe firm with high brand equity, which further facilitates the company’s entry into themarket (Samieeet al., 2004). This supports P2: to be successful in a foreign market, afashion retailer with high brand equity should choose a higher control entry mode.Financial capability
Being one of the largest fashion retailers in Italy, the company was able to provide the
financial support necessary for setting up a WOS. At the same time, the company’s
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financial commitment was consistent with its determination to establish a long-term
presence in the Chinese market.P3suggests that to be successful in a foreign market, a
fashion retailer with low financial capability should choose a lower control entry mode.
Accordingly, with its high level of financial capability, Company X was able to select a
higher control entry mode.
International experience
Company X had accumulated considerable knowledge from its 2005 JV for B Brand.
The company gained a better understanding of the Chinese market and processes of
doing business with Chinese partners. Their choice was in line with P4:to be
successful in a foreign market, a fashion retailer with high international experience
should choose a higher control entry mode.
Country risk
Whereas caution has been raised about doing business in China, e.g. laws and
regulatory systems are interpreted inconsistently and in favor of local retailers
(Dickson et al., 2004), the business environment in the country has nevertheless
improved for foreign investments (Zhanget al., 2002). P5suggests that to be successful
in a foreign market, a fashion retailer should choose a lower control entry mode when
country risk is high. Given that country risk appeared to be increasingly alleviated in
China, Company X selected a higher control entry mode, a WOS.
Cultural distance
There is significant cultural distance between China and western countries, including
Italy (Pan and Tse, 1996). According to P6, to be successful in a foreign market, a
fashion retailer should choose a lower control entry mode when country risk is high.
Company X may have been better off selecting a lower control entry mode. However,
the company’s acquired experience in the Chinese market helped to reduce the risk
associated with cultural distance, making it a less salient challenge. Furthermore, the
benefits of WOS (as related to other factors) outweighed the concerns associated with
cultural distance in this entry mode decision.
Government restrictions
Before 2005, most foreign companies had to distribute their brands only through
cooperation with local partners and were not allowed to enter the Chinese market
independently. However, beginning in 2005, the Chinese government implemented a
series of reforms to relax these restrictions, such as simplifying application procedures
and reducing company-related requirements (Ni, 2004). As a result, by the time
Company X introduced its A Brand, foreign fashion retailers were being given
unprecedented freedom in terms of access to the Chinese fashion market
(PriceWaterHouseCoopers, 2006). As discussed in P7, to be successful in a foreign
market, a fashion retailer should choose a lower control entry mode when government
restrictions are high. Therefore, perceiving a loosening of government restrictions,
Company X selected a higher control entry mode.
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Market potential
Due to the advantages of A Brand, such as distinctive design, reasonable price range,
and well-honed brand management skills, popularity of the brand among Chinese
consumers was anticipated. Furthermore, given the ever-increasing demand of fashion
brands by Chinese consumers (Kwanet al., 2008), a promising market potential for A
Brand was expected. The selection of WOS enabled the company to fully exploit the
perceived market potential both short- and long-term, which is in line withP8:to be
successful in a foreign market, a fashion retailer should choose a higher control entry
mode when market potential is high.
Market competition
With the growing presence of international fashion brands, the competition in the
Chinese fashion market has become increasingly intense (Kwanet al., 2003). However,
due to its competition advantages, such as its well-built managerial competence, the
marketing strength of A Brand, and great financial resources, Company X chose a high
control entry mode. This illustrates an apparent conflict between the entry mode choice
selected by the company and that proposed inP9: to be successful in a foreign market,
a fashion retailer should choose a lower control entry mode when market competition is
high. However, a high control entry mode was a logical choice given the company’s
competitive advantages and its fit with other entry mode factors.
In summary, high control over the foreign operation was preferred by Company X
to protect its brand equity from possible damage by inappropriate operations on the
part of local partners. A high control entry mode was also beneficial to the company for
gaining a higher profitability during long-term operation in the market. At the same
time, the company had sound financial resources as well as the international
experience necessary for operating in the Chinese market, which enabled it to select the
higher control entry mode of a WOS. The case study demonstrates that a firm needs to
consider trade-offs among all of the nine factors and make an optimal choice based on
the firm’s priorities. For A Brand, cultural distance and market competition suggested
that Company X should select a lower control entry mode, while the other seven factors
indicated that a higher control entry mode would be a better choice.
The success of Company X’s entry mode choice has been demonstrated by its
performance in China. By the time this paper was written, the company has opened 20
stores in several locations in China, all through WOS, and is planning more locations in
the future. According to a news release issued on the company’s web site, the fast
growth of the brand in China can be attributed to the company’s strategy of employing
the same brand positioning that has been used in Italy. All the stores in China have
adopted a similar concept and environment as those in Italy, including product
assortments, product presentations, and pricing, all of which were directly controlled
by the company’s headquarter in Italy. This emphasized the importance for a fashion
retailer to select a higher control entry mode to ensure a successful transfer of its
special assets and brand equity across markets, which are fundamental considerations
in a fashion brand’s foreign expansion decision
Company X had a clear advantage in
specialized assets/unique managerial capabilities such as advertising, operating a
quick response inventory system, and establishing a distinctive retail concept.
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