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estanding Pot FurnaceThe pot furnac
estanding Pot Furnace
The pot furnace is probably the most popular style of glass furnace in use today. They are fairly easy to construct, easy to maintain, and economical to build and run if insulated properly. Most private glass studios use some variation of the basic design outlined in this chapter. The invested and freestanding furnaces share a few similar building techniques. One is the construction of the ring that comprises the container in which the crucible sits and another is the “beehive” crown. If you choose to construct this furnace, please reference the section starting on page 156. In order to build this, or any pot furnace for that matter, it is important to familiarize yourself with the refractory materials that go into the building of glass equipment.
1. The crucible pedestal should be either cast from a heavy duty castable or constructed from hard brick. The floor should slope toward the clean-out drain. You may need a small portable burner to keep the glass hot and flowing when it comes through the drain tube. It’s a mess and a pain when it happens. I recommend putting sand between the pedestal and the crucible. Sand sometimes helps in getting the crucible to release when it needs to be removed. Sometimes a sledge hammer is needed to remove the pot.
2. The sloping floor is very important because it directs the glass to the drain tube. Make sure you slope the floor to a slight channel directed toward the drain tube. Obtaining a good slope can be facilitated by using a good, super-duty high, alumina plastic ramable. You may wish to ram your floor, slope it, and lay in the drain tube before you cast the ring. It makes setting up the ring a bit tricky, but it can save you an aching back. If you set the floor after the ring is cast, make sure you leave a hole in your sidewall mold for the drain tube, or cast the drain tube first and then cast the ring around the tube. Casting a drain tube should not present any problem. If you cast your own burner port and drain tube, try to fire them in a kiln before setting them in place. Plastic ramable is merely a special clay formula that, when dry, is somewhat brittle. Firing hardens it the same way as bisque firing a pot.
3. When insulating with fiber blanket, make sure the first 2” are 2600° F, 8 lb. density blanket. Beyond that you can use the 2300° F, 8 or 6 lb. density blanket. To avoid airborne fibers, I recommend encapsulating the fiber.
The Care and Feeding of Crucibles
One of the most common complaints from people using pot furnaces is that the crucible that they paid big bucks for cracked after being used about one week. | There are many reasons why crucibles crack before their time. The following information concerning the care I lof crucibles was supplied and written by John Bartel | formally of The Laclede Christy Crucible Company. M The information presented here is applicable to EC 1 crucibles as well.
The change of the glass melting crucible | composition from the clay flux type to the more M resistant, high alumina, zirconia materials, has m introduced a new factor into the successful thermal* management of the crucible. This factor is referred^ to as “down shock”—a phenomenon wherein the | differential temperatures between the inside wall of ; the crucible and its outside surface are of sufficient differences to develop a destructive stress force that will result in cracked refractory crucible walls. Normally, these cracks are not destructive to the point m they render the crucible useless, but they do establish 1 a condition whereby corrosive forces associated with* glass materials have a more favorable environment for 1 Taccelerated deterioration in the crack zones. Ultimately, j this results in a destructive hole through the structure* of the crucible. The cracking described accounts for 9 the majority of premature failures. There are other * factors which can cause this type of cracking, but the 1 Hlargest contributor is the manner in which the filled 1 material, batch-cullet is added to an active crucible.* The addition of batch, cullet, or combinations thereof 1 introduces the mechanism for lowering the interior M surface temperatures of the crucible. The amount, | frequency, and temperature of the charge are the j key contributors to the development of forces severe 1 enough to crack the crucible’s surface. The addition of I clod charge, in contact with the walls of the crucible, * can drop the temperature, in the area of contact, to | a 1000° F (537° C) in a matter of a few minutes. This J results in the interior wall, or that portion of contact, * wanting to shrink while the other, hotter surfaces a want to expand. It is this heat differential between * the inner and outer wall that creates enough stress M to sometimes crack the crucible. There are ways to , moderate these forces.
The temperatures of the charge material should * be as warm as your operation will permit. In addition, j| the material must be dry. You can help yourself if, at * the very least, you bring the material in and allow it* to sit in the warm surroundings of the furnace prior to^ its introduction into the crucible. Some people
The pot furnace is probably the most popular style of glass furnace in use today. They are fairly easy to construct, easy to maintain, and economical to build and run if insulated properly. Most private glass studios use some variation of the basic design outlined in this chapter. The invested and freestanding furnaces share a few similar building techniques. One is the construction of the ring that comprises the container in which the crucible sits and another is the “beehive” crown. If you choose to construct this furnace, please reference the section starting on page 156. In order to build this, or any pot furnace for that matter, it is important to familiarize yourself with the refractory materials that go into the building of glass equipment.
1. The crucible pedestal should be either cast from a heavy duty castable or constructed from hard brick. The floor should slope toward the clean-out drain. You may need a small portable burner to keep the glass hot and flowing when it comes through the drain tube. It’s a mess and a pain when it happens. I recommend putting sand between the pedestal and the crucible. Sand sometimes helps in getting the crucible to release when it needs to be removed. Sometimes a sledge hammer is needed to remove the pot.
2. The sloping floor is very important because it directs the glass to the drain tube. Make sure you slope the floor to a slight channel directed toward the drain tube. Obtaining a good slope can be facilitated by using a good, super-duty high, alumina plastic ramable. You may wish to ram your floor, slope it, and lay in the drain tube before you cast the ring. It makes setting up the ring a bit tricky, but it can save you an aching back. If you set the floor after the ring is cast, make sure you leave a hole in your sidewall mold for the drain tube, or cast the drain tube first and then cast the ring around the tube. Casting a drain tube should not present any problem. If you cast your own burner port and drain tube, try to fire them in a kiln before setting them in place. Plastic ramable is merely a special clay formula that, when dry, is somewhat brittle. Firing hardens it the same way as bisque firing a pot.
3. When insulating with fiber blanket, make sure the first 2” are 2600° F, 8 lb. density blanket. Beyond that you can use the 2300° F, 8 or 6 lb. density blanket. To avoid airborne fibers, I recommend encapsulating the fiber.
The Care and Feeding of Crucibles
One of the most common complaints from people using pot furnaces is that the crucible that they paid big bucks for cracked after being used about one week. | There are many reasons why crucibles crack before their time. The following information concerning the care I lof crucibles was supplied and written by John Bartel | formally of The Laclede Christy Crucible Company. M The information presented here is applicable to EC 1 crucibles as well.
The change of the glass melting crucible | composition from the clay flux type to the more M resistant, high alumina, zirconia materials, has m introduced a new factor into the successful thermal* management of the crucible. This factor is referred^ to as “down shock”—a phenomenon wherein the | differential temperatures between the inside wall of ; the crucible and its outside surface are of sufficient differences to develop a destructive stress force that will result in cracked refractory crucible walls. Normally, these cracks are not destructive to the point m they render the crucible useless, but they do establish 1 a condition whereby corrosive forces associated with* glass materials have a more favorable environment for 1 Taccelerated deterioration in the crack zones. Ultimately, j this results in a destructive hole through the structure* of the crucible. The cracking described accounts for 9 the majority of premature failures. There are other * factors which can cause this type of cracking, but the 1 Hlargest contributor is the manner in which the filled 1 material, batch-cullet is added to an active crucible.* The addition of batch, cullet, or combinations thereof 1 introduces the mechanism for lowering the interior M surface temperatures of the crucible. The amount, | frequency, and temperature of the charge are the j key contributors to the development of forces severe 1 enough to crack the crucible’s surface. The addition of I clod charge, in contact with the walls of the crucible, * can drop the temperature, in the area of contact, to | a 1000° F (537° C) in a matter of a few minutes. This J results in the interior wall, or that portion of contact, * wanting to shrink while the other, hotter surfaces a want to expand. It is this heat differential between * the inner and outer wall that creates enough stress M to sometimes crack the crucible. There are ways to , moderate these forces.
The temperatures of the charge material should * be as warm as your operation will permit. In addition, j| the material must be dry. You can help yourself if, at * the very least, you bring the material in and allow it* to sit in the warm surroundings of the furnace prior to^ its introduction into the crucible. Some people
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estanding nồi lòLò nồi có lẽ là phong cách phổ biến nhất của kính lò sử dụng vào ngày hôm nay. Họ là khá dễ dàng để xây dựng, dễ dàng để duy trì và kinh tế để xây dựng và chạy nếu cách nhiệt đúng cách. Đặt riêng kính studios sử dụng một số biến thể của thiết kế cơ bản được nêu trong chương này. Đầu tư và đặt sàn Lò chia sẻ một vài kỹ thuật xây dựng tương tự. Một là việc xây dựng của chiếc nhẫn này bao gồm các thùng chứa trong đó nồi nấu kim loại ngồi và khác là Vương miện "tổ ong". Nếu bạn chọn để xây dựng lò này, xin vui lòng tham khảo phần bắt đầu vào trang 156. Để xây dựng này, hoặc bất kỳ lò nồi cho rằng vấn đề, nó là quan trọng để làm quen với các vật liệu mà đi vào việc xây dựng các thiết bị thủy tinh.1. bệ nồi nấu kim loại nên là một trong hai diễn viên từ một nhiệm vụ nặng castable hoặc xây dựng từ gạch cứng. Sàn nên dốc về hướng sạch sẽ-out cống. Bạn có thể cần một ổ ghi xách tay nhỏ để giữ kính nóng và chảy khi nó đi qua ống cống. Nó là một mess và một nỗi đau khi nó xảy ra. Tôi khuyên bạn nên đặt cát giữa bệ và nồi nấu kim loại. Cát đôi khi giúp trong việc nồi nấu kim loại để phát hành khi nó cần phải được gỡ bỏ. Đôi khi một cái búa sledge cần thiết để loại bỏ nồi.2. sàn nhà dốc là rất quan trọng bởi vì nó chỉ đạo kính ống cống. Đảm bảo rằng bạn dốc sàn nhà để một kênh nhỏ hướng về phía các ống cống. Lấy một độ dốc tốt có thể được tạo điều kiện bằng cách sử dụng một tốt, duty siêu cao, nhôm nhựa ramable. Bạn có thể muốn ram sàn nhà của bạn, dốc nó, và nằm trong ống cống trước khi bạn bỏ chiếc nhẫn. Nó làm cho thiết lập trong vòng một chút khôn lanh, nhưng nó có thể giúp tiết kiệm bạn một đau trở lại. Nếu bạn đặt sàn nhà sau khi chiếc nhẫn bị quăng, hãy chắc chắn rằng bạn để lại một lỗ trong khuôn mẫu lốp của bạn cho ống cống, hoặc đúc ống cống đầu tiên và sau đó bỏ vòng quanh ống. Đúc một ống cống không nên trình bày bất kỳ vấn đề. Nếu bạn bỏ cổng ổ ghi riêng của bạn và khóa ống, cố gắng bắn chúng trong một lò trước khi cài đặt chúng tại chỗ. Nhựa ramable là chỉ đơn thuần là một công thức đặc biệt đất sét đó, khi khô, là hơi giòn. Bắn cứng lại nó theo cùng một cách như bisque bắn một nồi.3. khi cách điện với sợi chăn, đảm bảo rằng các đầu tiên 2" là 2600° F, 8 lb mật độ chăn. Hơn thế nữa mà bạn có thể sử dụng 2300 ° F, 8 hoặc 6 lb mật độ chăn. Để tránh không khí sợi, tôi khuyên bạn nên đóng gói sợi.Việc chăm sóc và cho ăn của nồiMột trong những khiếu nại phổ biến nhất từ những người sử dụng nồi lò là nồi nấu kim loại mà họ trả tiền bucks lớn cho nứt sau khi được sử dụng khoảng một tuần. | Có rất nhiều lý do tại sao nồi crack trước khi thời gian của họ. Các thông tin sau đây liên quan đến việc chăm sóc tôi lof nồi được cung cấp và lời của John Bartel | chính thức của Christy Laclede nồi nấu kim loại công ty. M các thông tin trình bày ở đây được áp dụng cho EC 1 nồi là tốt.Sự thay đổi của thủy tinh nóng chảy nồi nấu kim loại | thành phần từ đất sét thông lượng loại để hơn chịu M, cao nhôm, vật liệu zirconia, đã m giới thiệu một yếu tố mới vào thành công nhiệt * quản lý của nồi nấu kim loại. Yếu tố này được gọi ^ để là "xuống chấn động" — một hiện tượng wherein các | khác biệt giữa nhiệt độ bên trong tường; nồi nấu kim loại và bề mặt bên ngoài của nó sự khác biệt đủ để phát triển một lực lượng phá hoại căng thẳng sẽ dẫn đến nứt nồi nấu kim loại khó nóng chảy bức tường. Thông thường, các vết nứt không được phá hoại điểm m họ đưa ra nồi nấu kim loại vô ích, nhưng họ thiết lập 1 một tình trạng theo đó ăn mòn lực lượng kết hợp với * vật liệu thủy tinh có một môi trường thuận lợi hơn cho 1 Taccelerated suy thoái trong khu crack. Cuối cùng, j điều này dẫn đến một lỗ phá hoại thông qua các cấu trúc * của nồi nấu kim loại. Nứt mô tả cho tài khoản cho 9 phần lớn thất bại sớm. Có khác * yếu tố có thể gây ra loại nứt, nhưng đóng góp Hlargest 1 là cách thức mà các tài liệu đầy 1, lô-cullet được thêm vào một crucible.* hoạt động bổ sung hàng loạt, cullet, hoặc kết hợp đó 1 giới thiệu cơ chế cho việc giảm nhiệt độ bề mặt nội thất M của nồi nấu kim loại. Số lượng, | tần số, và nhiệt độ của khoản phí là những người đóng góp quan trọng vào sự phát triển của lực lượng nghiêm trọng 1 đủ để crack của nồi nấu kim loại bề mặt j. Việc bổ sung của tôi Cục phí, tiếp xúc với các bức tường của nồi nấu kim loại, * có thể thả nhiệt độ, trong khu vực của số liên lạc, đến | một 1000° F (537° C) trong một vài một vài phút. J này kết quả trong các bức tường nội thất, hoặc đó là phần của số liên lạc, * bạn muốn thu nhỏ trong khi khác, nóng hơn bề mặt một muốn mở rộng. Nó là nhiệt này khác biệt giữa * các bức tường bên trong và bên ngoài tạo ra căng thẳng đủ M để đôi khi crack nồi nấu kim loại. Có những cách để, các lực lượng vừa phải.Nhiệt độ của vật liệu phí nên * ấm khi hoạt động của bạn sẽ cho phép. Ngoài ra, j| Các tài liệu phải được khô. Bạn có thể giúp mình nếu, tại * rất ít nhất, bạn mang lại các tài liệu và cho phép nó * để ngồi trong khung cảnh ấm áp của lò trước ^ đưa vào nồi nấu kim loại. Một số người
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estanding Pot Furnace
The pot furnace is probably the most popular style of glass furnace in use today. They are fairly easy to construct, easy to maintain, and economical to build and run if insulated properly. Most private glass studios use some variation of the basic design outlined in this chapter. The invested and freestanding furnaces share a few similar building techniques. One is the construction of the ring that comprises the container in which the crucible sits and another is the “beehive” crown. If you choose to construct this furnace, please reference the section starting on page 156. In order to build this, or any pot furnace for that matter, it is important to familiarize yourself with the refractory materials that go into the building of glass equipment.
1. The crucible pedestal should be either cast from a heavy duty castable or constructed from hard brick. The floor should slope toward the clean-out drain. You may need a small portable burner to keep the glass hot and flowing when it comes through the drain tube. It’s a mess and a pain when it happens. I recommend putting sand between the pedestal and the crucible. Sand sometimes helps in getting the crucible to release when it needs to be removed. Sometimes a sledge hammer is needed to remove the pot.
2. The sloping floor is very important because it directs the glass to the drain tube. Make sure you slope the floor to a slight channel directed toward the drain tube. Obtaining a good slope can be facilitated by using a good, super-duty high, alumina plastic ramable. You may wish to ram your floor, slope it, and lay in the drain tube before you cast the ring. It makes setting up the ring a bit tricky, but it can save you an aching back. If you set the floor after the ring is cast, make sure you leave a hole in your sidewall mold for the drain tube, or cast the drain tube first and then cast the ring around the tube. Casting a drain tube should not present any problem. If you cast your own burner port and drain tube, try to fire them in a kiln before setting them in place. Plastic ramable is merely a special clay formula that, when dry, is somewhat brittle. Firing hardens it the same way as bisque firing a pot.
3. When insulating with fiber blanket, make sure the first 2” are 2600° F, 8 lb. density blanket. Beyond that you can use the 2300° F, 8 or 6 lb. density blanket. To avoid airborne fibers, I recommend encapsulating the fiber.
The Care and Feeding of Crucibles
One of the most common complaints from people using pot furnaces is that the crucible that they paid big bucks for cracked after being used about one week. | There are many reasons why crucibles crack before their time. The following information concerning the care I lof crucibles was supplied and written by John Bartel | formally of The Laclede Christy Crucible Company. M The information presented here is applicable to EC 1 crucibles as well.
The change of the glass melting crucible | composition from the clay flux type to the more M resistant, high alumina, zirconia materials, has m introduced a new factor into the successful thermal* management of the crucible. This factor is referred^ to as “down shock”—a phenomenon wherein the | differential temperatures between the inside wall of ; the crucible and its outside surface are of sufficient differences to develop a destructive stress force that will result in cracked refractory crucible walls. Normally, these cracks are not destructive to the point m they render the crucible useless, but they do establish 1 a condition whereby corrosive forces associated with* glass materials have a more favorable environment for 1 Taccelerated deterioration in the crack zones. Ultimately, j this results in a destructive hole through the structure* of the crucible. The cracking described accounts for 9 the majority of premature failures. There are other * factors which can cause this type of cracking, but the 1 Hlargest contributor is the manner in which the filled 1 material, batch-cullet is added to an active crucible.* The addition of batch, cullet, or combinations thereof 1 introduces the mechanism for lowering the interior M surface temperatures of the crucible. The amount, | frequency, and temperature of the charge are the j key contributors to the development of forces severe 1 enough to crack the crucible’s surface. The addition of I clod charge, in contact with the walls of the crucible, * can drop the temperature, in the area of contact, to | a 1000° F (537° C) in a matter of a few minutes. This J results in the interior wall, or that portion of contact, * wanting to shrink while the other, hotter surfaces a want to expand. It is this heat differential between * the inner and outer wall that creates enough stress M to sometimes crack the crucible. There are ways to , moderate these forces.
The temperatures of the charge material should * be as warm as your operation will permit. In addition, j| the material must be dry. You can help yourself if, at * the very least, you bring the material in and allow it* to sit in the warm surroundings of the furnace prior to^ its introduction into the crucible. Some people
The pot furnace is probably the most popular style of glass furnace in use today. They are fairly easy to construct, easy to maintain, and economical to build and run if insulated properly. Most private glass studios use some variation of the basic design outlined in this chapter. The invested and freestanding furnaces share a few similar building techniques. One is the construction of the ring that comprises the container in which the crucible sits and another is the “beehive” crown. If you choose to construct this furnace, please reference the section starting on page 156. In order to build this, or any pot furnace for that matter, it is important to familiarize yourself with the refractory materials that go into the building of glass equipment.
1. The crucible pedestal should be either cast from a heavy duty castable or constructed from hard brick. The floor should slope toward the clean-out drain. You may need a small portable burner to keep the glass hot and flowing when it comes through the drain tube. It’s a mess and a pain when it happens. I recommend putting sand between the pedestal and the crucible. Sand sometimes helps in getting the crucible to release when it needs to be removed. Sometimes a sledge hammer is needed to remove the pot.
2. The sloping floor is very important because it directs the glass to the drain tube. Make sure you slope the floor to a slight channel directed toward the drain tube. Obtaining a good slope can be facilitated by using a good, super-duty high, alumina plastic ramable. You may wish to ram your floor, slope it, and lay in the drain tube before you cast the ring. It makes setting up the ring a bit tricky, but it can save you an aching back. If you set the floor after the ring is cast, make sure you leave a hole in your sidewall mold for the drain tube, or cast the drain tube first and then cast the ring around the tube. Casting a drain tube should not present any problem. If you cast your own burner port and drain tube, try to fire them in a kiln before setting them in place. Plastic ramable is merely a special clay formula that, when dry, is somewhat brittle. Firing hardens it the same way as bisque firing a pot.
3. When insulating with fiber blanket, make sure the first 2” are 2600° F, 8 lb. density blanket. Beyond that you can use the 2300° F, 8 or 6 lb. density blanket. To avoid airborne fibers, I recommend encapsulating the fiber.
The Care and Feeding of Crucibles
One of the most common complaints from people using pot furnaces is that the crucible that they paid big bucks for cracked after being used about one week. | There are many reasons why crucibles crack before their time. The following information concerning the care I lof crucibles was supplied and written by John Bartel | formally of The Laclede Christy Crucible Company. M The information presented here is applicable to EC 1 crucibles as well.
The change of the glass melting crucible | composition from the clay flux type to the more M resistant, high alumina, zirconia materials, has m introduced a new factor into the successful thermal* management of the crucible. This factor is referred^ to as “down shock”—a phenomenon wherein the | differential temperatures between the inside wall of ; the crucible and its outside surface are of sufficient differences to develop a destructive stress force that will result in cracked refractory crucible walls. Normally, these cracks are not destructive to the point m they render the crucible useless, but they do establish 1 a condition whereby corrosive forces associated with* glass materials have a more favorable environment for 1 Taccelerated deterioration in the crack zones. Ultimately, j this results in a destructive hole through the structure* of the crucible. The cracking described accounts for 9 the majority of premature failures. There are other * factors which can cause this type of cracking, but the 1 Hlargest contributor is the manner in which the filled 1 material, batch-cullet is added to an active crucible.* The addition of batch, cullet, or combinations thereof 1 introduces the mechanism for lowering the interior M surface temperatures of the crucible. The amount, | frequency, and temperature of the charge are the j key contributors to the development of forces severe 1 enough to crack the crucible’s surface. The addition of I clod charge, in contact with the walls of the crucible, * can drop the temperature, in the area of contact, to | a 1000° F (537° C) in a matter of a few minutes. This J results in the interior wall, or that portion of contact, * wanting to shrink while the other, hotter surfaces a want to expand. It is this heat differential between * the inner and outer wall that creates enough stress M to sometimes crack the crucible. There are ways to , moderate these forces.
The temperatures of the charge material should * be as warm as your operation will permit. In addition, j| the material must be dry. You can help yourself if, at * the very least, you bring the material in and allow it* to sit in the warm surroundings of the furnace prior to^ its introduction into the crucible. Some people
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