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Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Te


Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology
Third Edition




Edited by
André O. Barel Marc Paye
Howard I. Maibach








Cover Illustration: Marianne Mahieu Informa Healthcare USA, Inc.
52 Vanderbilt Avenue New York, NY 10017
# 2009 by Informa Healthcare USA, Inc. Informa Healthcare is an Informa business

No claim to original U.S. Government works
Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

International Standard Book Number-10: 1-4200-6963-2 (Hardcover) International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-4200-6963-1 (Hardcover)

This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. A wide variety of references are listed. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or for the consequence of their use.

No part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers.

For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, please access www.copyright.com (http:// www.copyright.com/) or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. (CCC) 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400. CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of users. For organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by the CCC, a separate system of payment has been arranged.

Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Handbook of cosmetic science and technology / edited by Andre´ O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach. — 3rd ed.
p. ; cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN-13: 978-1-4200-6963-1 (hardcover : alk. paper)
ISBN-10: 1-4200-6963-2 (hardcover : alk. paper) 1. Cosmetics— Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Barel, A. O. II. Paye, Marc, 1959- III. Maibach, Howard I.
[DNLM: 1. Cosmetics. 2. Consumer Product Safety. 3. Skin Care. 4.
Skin. WA 744 H236 2009]
TP983.H24 2009 6680.55—dc22
2008042398


For Corporate Sales and Reprint Permissions call 212-520-2700 or write to: Sales Department, 52 Vanderbilt Avenue, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017.

Visit the Informa Web site at www.informa.com

and the Informa Healthcare Web site at www.informahealthcare.com




Preface



Thanks to the contribution of leading experts in cosmetology, the first editions of the Handbook were successful and received excellent reviews. The editors appreciate the excellent author contributions.
The first edition, published in 2001, reviewed the multiple facets of the cosmetic field including the physiology of cosmetics targets and the safety, legal and regulatory context worldwide. It gave a broad overview of cosmetic ingredients, vehicles and finished products, and described the main methodologies used for microbiology, safety and efficacy testing. In the second edition (2006), we examined the future of cosmetology by the addition of chapters related to new ingredients, new delivery systems and new testing methodologies, but also by asking the previous authors to update their chapter with their speculation about the future in their field of expertise. To make the information more accessible, chapters were significantly reorganized.
Cosmetic science is a fast moving area. Furthermore, rapid and extensive changes in the worldwide regulatory context of cosmetics, increasing constraints and limitations in the choice of cosmetic ingredients and regular pressure from the media force the cosmetic formulator to think differently about his products. For all those reasons and due to more and more demanding and educated consumers asking for additional benefits from their cosmetic products, we have been asked to initiate the third edition of the Handbook.
Several chapters, from previous authors, are key in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology and have been updated with the latest developments in the given field. However, it is the intention of the editors to give this version a new and important dimension that will complement the previous editions; a focus on the mechanism of interaction of the products or ingredients with their target.
Today, cosmetic products are of a high quality. If we want to further improve their quality, this will inevitably pass through an even better understanding of how those products or ingredients work to improve the appearance, protect their target or help maintain its
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Handbook of Cosmetic Science and TechnologyThird EditionEdited byAndré O. Barel Marc PayeHoward I. Maibach Cover Illustration: Marianne Mahieu Informa Healthcare USA, Inc.52 Vanderbilt Avenue New York, NY 10017# 2009 by Informa Healthcare USA, Inc. Informa Healthcare is an Informa businessNo claim to original U.S. Government worksPrinted in the United States of America on acid-free paper 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 International Standard Book Number-10: 1-4200-6963-2 (Hardcover) International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-4200-6963-1 (Hardcover)This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. A wide variety of references are listed. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or for the consequence of their use.No part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers.For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, please access www.copyright.com (http:// www.copyright.com/) or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. (CCC) 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400. CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of users. For organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by the CCC, a separate system of payment has been arranged.Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe.Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Handbook of cosmetic science and technology / edited by Andre´ O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach. — 3rd ed.p. ; cm.Includes bibliographical references and index.ISBN-13: 978-1-4200-6963-1 (hardcover : alk. paper)ISBN-10: 1-4200-6963-2 (hardcover : alk. paper) 1. Cosmetics— Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Barel, A. O. II. Paye, Marc, 1959- III. Maibach, Howard I.[DNLM: 1. Cosmetics. 2. Consumer Product Safety. 3. Skin Care. 4.Skin. WA 744 H236 2009]TP983.H24 2009 6680.55—dc222008042398 For Corporate Sales and Reprint Permissions call 212-520-2700 or write to: Sales Department, 52 Vanderbilt Avenue, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017.Visit the Informa Web site at www.informa.comand the Informa Healthcare Web site at www.informahealthcare.com PrefaceThanks to the contribution of leading experts in cosmetology, the first editions of the Handbook were successful and received excellent reviews. The editors appreciate the excellent author contributions.The first edition, published in 2001, reviewed the multiple facets of the cosmetic field including the physiology of cosmetics targets and the safety, legal and regulatory context worldwide. It gave a broad overview of cosmetic ingredients, vehicles and finished products, and described the main methodologies used for microbiology, safety and efficacy testing. In the second edition (2006), we examined the future of cosmetology by the addition of chapters related to new ingredients, new delivery systems and new testing methodologies, but also by asking the previous authors to update their chapter with their speculation about the future in their field of expertise. To make the information more accessible, chapters were significantly reorganized.Cosmetic science is a fast moving area. Furthermore, rapid and extensive changes in the worldwide regulatory context of cosmetics, increasing constraints and limitations in the choice of cosmetic ingredients and regular pressure from the media force the cosmetic formulator to think differently about his products. For all those reasons and due to more and more demanding and educated consumers asking for additional benefits from their cosmetic products, we have been asked to initiate the third edition of the Handbook.Several chapters, from previous authors, are key in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology and have been updated with the latest developments in the given field. However, it is the intention of the editors to give this version a new and important dimension that will complement the previous editions; a focus on the mechanism of interaction of the products or ingredients with their target.
Today, cosmetic products are of a high quality. If we want to further improve their quality, this will inevitably pass through an even better understanding of how those products or ingredients work to improve the appearance, protect their target or help maintain its
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